DINING

Restaurants

Auberge des Seguins
84480 Buoux
04 90 74 19 89

This is one of our favorite destinations for traditional Provençal food served in a glorious setting.  The restaurant (and adjacent hotel favored by hikers) is tucked in a verdant valley between stunning cliffs and beneath the ruins of Fort Buoux.  During the warm months, one may enjoy the meal outside with this splendid view and, in the colder months, one may be warmed by a huge fireplace.

You'll begin with a tray of colorful and tasty hors d'oeuvres, followed by several choices for the main course and a small selection of simple but very good desserts.  It is a congenial ambience, usually shared with a cat or two.  We have only been for lunch and usually enjoy a short walk after the meal.  Do beware that the road to this restaurant is very narrow and a little serpentine (which is probably why we always opt for lunch, in addition to being able to enjoy the views).  To get to this restaurant, take the Route de Apt (D943) from Lourmarin; follow the signs to Buoux, which will entail a right turn onto D113, just after the turn off to Bonnieux.  It is about 20 minutes from Lourmarin.  We recommend reservations and a call to confirm they are open.  Credit cards are not accepted.

Auberge de la Loube
Quartier la Loube-Buoux
04 90 74 19 58

This restaurant is known for its traditional Provençal food, especially, their generous hors d'oeuvres platter, and, now, for its appearance in Peter Mayle's "A Year in Provence."  We went to this restaurant in the winter and sat inside near a lovely (and most welcome) fireplace; during the warm months, meals are served on teh terrace with a lovely view.  The food was simply prepared and delicious.

To get to this restaurant, take the Route de Apt (D943) from Lourmarin; follow the signs to Buoux, which will entail a right turn onto the winding D113, just after the turn off to Bonnieux. It is about 20 minutes from Lourmarin. We recommend reservations and a call to confirm they are open.  Credit cards are not accepted.

L'Antiquaire
Rue du Grand Pré
84160 Lourmarin
Tel : 04 90 68 17 29

This is one of our favorite restaurants for an excellent meal that fulfills our desire for haute-cuisine, but in a less formal style and at a reasonable price.  In fact, if our sources are correct, the owners strive to create food and service worthy of those coveted Michelin stars, but are not interested in the requisite accouterments (nonsense?) that accompany the stars.  The food is Provençal-inspired, beautifully presented, and attentively served.  The restaurant is small, quiet (--except for the pleasant buzz of patrons enjoying their meals), comfortable and attractively adorned.  The acoustics are particularly good--we have often been struck by how easy it is to have a quiet conversation even though the restaurant may be filled with patrons.  The air conditioning is a welcome relief from the warm Provençal sun.  Reservations suggested.  Closed Sunday night and Monday.

Le Fournil
5 Place Carnot
84480 Bonnieux
Tel: 04 90 75 83 62

Le Fournil, literally translated means "bakehouse" and indeed this restaurant is located in a building where bread was once baked. The former bakery, tucked into the side of the rock upon which part of the village is built and overlooking a terrace, has been completely transformed into an interesting, warm, and inviting atmosphere.  At first glance, it may seem that the furnishings are far too contemporary for the exposed stone setting, but the surprising juxtaposition provides an edge and definitely works.  In the warm months dining takes place on the terrace, under canopies that, for the most part, protect the customers from the intense Provençal sun.  The food, Provençal with a modern eclectic twist, is excellent and attractively presented.  The menu changes about every four weeks.  The restaurant is popular, so we recommend reservations, particularly for the Sunday afternoon meal.

La Louche à Beurre
Avenue du Rayol
84160 Lourmarin
Tel : 04 90 68 00 33

We love this restaurant--it has terrific food in a vibrant atmosphere.  They specialize in savory and dessert crêpes and tabletop grilled food.  With the latter, which we always order, they bring a hot stone to the table upon which you cook your slices of premium quality meat.  It is hard to improve upon the taste of the meat alone, but the accompanying sauces take the meal to even greater heights.  We highly recommend the salads and the potatoes dauphinois.  For dessert, we always have crêpes and recommend their specialty, crêpes Suzette.  Reservations suggested.

Le Moulin de Lourmarin
84160 Lourmarin
Tel: 04 90 68 06 69

Wide open space, lots of windows, and sparsely furnished, the décor is austere but nonetheless warm, comfortable, and very inviting.  The service is friendly and unpretentious despite its reputation as one of the best restaurants in the area.  This is the home of Edouard Loubet, youngest chef to receive two Michelin stars.  This young chef, known for his creative use of herbs and herbal infusions, opened the restaurant, along with his mother in 1993, after having made extensive renovations to the building that once housed an olive oil mill.  It has always been a divine experience to have dinner in this restaurant.  A couple of years ago, they began bistro dining outside, with lighter food and lower prices.

Just recently, Chef Loubet moved his gastronomic restaurant from Le Moulin to his second restaurant in Bonnieux, Bastide de Capelongue.  We have not been to Le Moulin since that time; we hear that the food remains excellent, but less expensive.  We will report back on this new development soon.  Reservations are suggested.

L'Oustallet
Avenue du Rayol
84160 Lourmarin
Tel : 04 90 68 07 33

This restaurant is under new management.  We have not been there since this change, but we hear that the food remains good.  We will report back later.

Pizza Nonni
2, rue Albert Camus
84160 Lourmarin
Tel : 04 90 68 23 33

This is a casual Italian restaurant located in what was once a stable; the area on the wall that once held the feed for the animals is still there.  In the winter months, the ambience is cozy and inviting, especially in the back room around the fireplace; in the summer months, the outdoor tables, lined along the sidewalk and scattered around the Fontaine la Cordière, are filled quickly.  Patrick, the gregarious owner, greets his customers personally with a big smile, a strong hand shake or the customary kisses on the cheeks.  He has a knack for making everyone feel welcome and part of the crowd while his wife is busy making the pizzas, which remain some of the best we've had the pleasure of enjoying--anywhere.

Our favorite pizza is "Les Indians," a fabulous mix of crème fraîche, lardons (bacon), cheeses and tomato sauce.  Because we love the pizzas so much, we had been reluctant to venture into other offerings on the menu until recently, but our explorations have certainly been rewarded.  The steak for two was perfectly cooked and could not have been more tender and the spaghetti with mushrooms was heavenly (assuming one likes mushrooms because there are lots!!).  We always order salads, which are generous enough to split, and can highly recommend all of them.  Reservations are encouraged, especially for one of the coveted outdoor tables on a warm summer evening.  Closed on Mondays; Tuesdays and Saturdays at lunch.

La Récréation
15 Avenue Philippe de Girard
84160 Lourmarin
Tel : 04 90 68 23 73

Sunday brunch served on the terrace on a sunny day is the perfect way to start the day.  Although, if the weather doesn't cooperate, the ambience inside is warm and welcoming, especially around the fireplace.  The menu is extensive from very light omelets and salads to braised meat dishes. The lamb is divine.  The cuisine is traditional Provençal with an emphasis on regional and organic products.  The portions are generous and the price very reasonable.  Tea is served in the afternoon as well as ice cream.  This is a restaurant we frequent a lot.  Reservations suggested.  Closed Wednesday.